Monsoon Induced Sea Waves in Ulee Lheue and Lhoong Waters, Indonesia

Resumen

This study aims to predict the characteristics of ocean waves, including wave height, direction and period, in the waters of Ulee Lheue and Lhoong, Aceh Province. This study is motivated by the significant influence of monsoon winds on the formation of ocean waves, which is closely related to global climate change. Wind data were obtained from NCEP (2015-2019) and analyzed using an empirical model from U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (2006), considering wind speed, wind direction, and fetch length in both study areas. The results show that the dominant wind in Ulee Lheue comes from the Northeast with an average speed of 1.8 m/s, producing an average wave of 0.2 meters and a period of 2 seconds. In contrast, in Lhoong, the dominant wind comes from the Southwest with a speed of 3.4 m/s, producing an average wave of 0.7 meters and a period of 5 seconds. These differences in wave characteristics are influenced by geography, sea depth and exposure to dominant winds. These findings are important to support coastal management, mitigation of disasters such as erosion and backwash, and sustainable use of natural resources in Aceh's coastal areas. This research also emphasizes the importance of understanding ocean dynamics in the context of regional climate change.